Oiling a Cricket Bat
Also known as: oiling a cricket bat, oil a cricket bat, linseed oil for cricket bat, raw linseed oil, cricket bat oil, over oiling a bat
Oil a natural-faced bat with light coats of raw linseed oil or a specialist bat oil. Rub it into the face, edges and toe with a cloth, and keep it off the splice and stickers. Let each coat soak in, then wipe off the excess. Too much oil can soften the willow and spoil its performance.
Oil keeps moisture in the willow, which helps stop it drying out and cracking. Bat makers recommend raw linseed oil or a specialist cricket bat oil for bats with an uncovered, natural face. Apply a little at a time. One maker describes a coat as about half a teaspoon, rubbed into the face and edges with a soft cloth. Another advises light coats on the face, edges, toe and the exposed willow on the back. Keep oil away from the splice, where the handle joins the blade, and off the stickers.
Let each coat dry before adding the next. Makers suggest leaving the bat lying face up, or slightly raised with the handle down, for 24 to 48 hours. Wipe off any oil that has not soaked in. Two or three light coats are usually enough for a new bat. Do not stand the bat in oil or prop it upright to dry. Over-oiling is as harmful as too little. It can make the willow soft and reduce its performance.
Most bats now come with a clear anti-scuff sheet on the face. Oil is not needed under a facing, and it can stop the sheet's adhesive from bonding. A common time to re-oil is between seasons, when an old sheet is changed. Oil any exposed willow lightly at other times if it looks dry. Each maker's advice differs a little, so follow the instructions that came with your bat.
Tips by skill level
Use a cloth and a very small amount. If oil is still sitting on the surface after a day, you used too much, so wipe it off.
When you change the scuff sheet between seasons, lightly sand the face first. Give it one thin coat of oil and let it dry fully before fitting the new sheet.
Example
Before knocking in his new bat, a player rubs half a teaspoon of raw linseed oil into the face and edges. He keeps it off the splice and leaves the bat face up overnight. Next day he wipes off the excess and adds one more light coat.
Why it matters
Light, occasional oiling helps a natural willow bat last longer. Too much oil does real damage, so a little care with the amount matters.
Common mistakes
- Pouring oil straight onto the bat instead of rubbing a little in with a cloth
- Oiling the splice or soaking the stickers
- Standing the bat upright while the oil dries
- Oiling under a new anti-scuff sheet, which can stop it sticking
Frequently asked questions
How often should I oil my cricket bat?
Give a new natural-faced bat two or three light coats as part of preparing it. After that, oil only when the bare willow looks dry or when you change the scuff sheet, often between seasons. Follow your bat maker's advice.
What oil should I use on a cricket bat?
Raw linseed oil or a specialist cricket bat oil, as bat makers recommend. Apply light coats with a cloth and keep the oil off the splice and stickers.
How much oil do you put on a cricket bat?
Very little. One maker describes a coat as about half a teaspoon, rubbed into the face and edges. Let it soak in, then wipe off anything left on the surface.
Do I need to oil a bat with an anti-scuff sheet?
Not under the sheet. Oil is not needed under a facing, and it can stop the adhesive from bonding. You can lightly oil any bare willow on the back, edges and toe.
Sources
- Gray-Nicolls: How to care for your bat (about half a teaspoon per coat; 24-48 hours face up; oiling when changing the sheet)
- Gray-Nicolls: How do I make my cricket bat last as long as possible? (light coat of linseed oil, avoid the splice, don't over-oil)
- Kookaburra: Cricket bat maintenance (raw linseed or specialist bat oil; face, edge, toe and back; avoid splice and stickers; no oil under a facing)
Related terms
- Knocking In a Cricket BatKnocking in compresses the fibres in a new willow bat so it is less likely to crack against a hard ball. Tap the face and edges with a bat mallet or an old ball in a sock, starting gently and building up. Allow several hours. One major bat maker advises at least 4 to 6 hours.
- English Willow GradesEnglish willow grades describe how the wood in a bat's blade looks, mainly its grain, colour and marks. Higher grades have straighter, more even grain and fewer blemishes. Lower grades show more coloured wood, knots or specks. Each maker uses its own scale. Compare bats by feel and pickup as well as grade.
- Choosing a Cricket BatChoose a cricket bat by size first, then weight and pickup, then willow and profile. Size goes by your height, using the maker's chart. The bat should feel light and balanced in your stance, not just light on the scales. English willow suits hard-ball cricket. Kashmir willow suits beginners and soft-ball play.
- Toe Guard, Scuff Sheet and Bat RepairA toe guard protects the bottom of the bat from knocks off the ground and from yorkers. A clear anti-scuff sheet protects the face from minor cracks, and edge tape adds protection to the edges. All willow bats crack over time. Get small cracks repaired early, before they spread.
- Kashmir WillowKashmir willow is willow grown in the Kashmir region and used for many entry-level and junior bats. It is naturally denser and more durable than English willow but lacks some of its 'ping'. It suits beginners, juniors and soft-ball cricket. English willow is the usual choice for regular hard-ball play.
Cricket analysis is in development
Motion Lab does not analyze this sport yet. Keep exploring the terms in this section.